I had already been to Arizona twice before my first excursion into Oregon's John Day country and was quite impressed with its similarity to Prescott and Sedona. There is no Grand Canyon or Oak Creek Canyon but the topography and even the climate is somewhat similar. As a transient from the suburbs of Chicago, I am always tickled at the choices of places to explore in Oregon all within a few hours' drive from most population hubs. Only a handful of small towns dot the map in this empty land. The throngs of RV's and rowdy tourists are a dime a dozen. One of my favorite scenic drives winds through the canyons and plateaus of the John Day, tagging more renowned stops along the way such as the Painted Hills and Sheep Rock. The regions' more subtle charm includes peaceful cattle ranches alternating with interesting rock formations and rolling hills dotted with juniper and a lonely ponderosa pine once in a while. From high passes along the route, distant Cascade sentinels mark the western horizon; Mt. Hood and Mt. Jefferson to name a couple. The jagged Strawberry Mountains rise to the east. Weekend geologists and rock hounds can have the times of their lives combing the cut banks for fossils and the state rock, the Thunderegg. Nothing more than somewhat unattractive gray mass of molten earth until it is cracked open, revealing an attractive quartzite-like core. Just remember to leave fossils and take only pictures while in any of the three National Monument units.

Many armchair travelers, including myself and even native Oregonians alike often wonder where the famed river, valley, canyon and town received their names. Unfortunately, little information on the demographics can be found, unless you inquire with some of the local folks in the area. John Day was a fur trapper and hunter who was separated from his exploration party led by John Jacob Astor and William Price Hunt in search of the Columbia River in 1812. He and another man, Ramsey Crooks, wintered where the present-day John Day River empties into the Columbia. The river was named Mah-hah until the 1850's. John Day most likely explored the remote canyons and may be responsible for discovering the rivers' three forks, though never was anywhere near the Sheep Rock area.

Many travelers can be just as content to spend a few hours or a whole day, depending on which direction you're coming from, enjoying the scenery from the car. My favorite starting point is from the west in Prineville along US Highway 26. Just a few miles out of town, drive past the man-made Ochoco Lake, busy with water-skiers and sailboats in the summer. The reservoir is drained throughout the year, usually in fall months, only to be filled again with snowmelt from the surrounding Ochoco Mountains during runoff season.

In about ten miles or so, you'll notice a vegetative transition from juniper and mahogany to a beautiful forest of towering ponderosa pine and scattered western larch. Numerous meadows dot the relatively open timber permitting views of grazing deer and an occasional elk. As a forester, I am always delighted to see the extra care that has been implemented in the underburning efforts of the forest near Ochoco Summit. This underburn, or "controlled fire", in a sense, clean out the dry tree litter of needles and twigs which accumulates over time providing fuel for potentially catastrophic fires. In order to prevent this and mimic the natural forest succession, these prescribed fires may occur along a mile or two stretch of the highway. Just roll up the windows, turn on the vent and accept the fact that the result will be a healthy forest to enjoy on future trips. Unfortunately, Mother Nature took her toll in a wilder corner of the Ochocos during the summer of 2000 as a lightning-struck fire consumed several thousand acres in the Mill Creek Wilderness, northwest of the highway. Otherwise, the park-like ponderosa pine woods are an array of color thanks to yellow balsamroot and purple lupine decorating the forest floor.

A couple of rustic picnic areas are at 4,720-foot Ochoco Summit; Bandit Spring and Ochoco Divide, both with memorable ponderosa pines, campsites and pit toilets. However, you'll need to inhale that sweet vanilla aroma for the last time as the route leaves the pines and enters the vast landscapes of a more pungent aroma; juniper and sage. One of my favorite highway vistas awaits just a few miles below the summit. Sweeping views of the peaceful John Day Country's dry buttes and peaks now complete the scene. Here is where the land reminds me of central and northern Arizona, minus the saguaros.

In about 7 miles, you'll want to see the first of the three John Day Fossil Bend National Monument units, a six-mile side trip winds through a narrow irrigated valley to the Painted Hills. My first visit to the "hills" was during a thundershower in September, when the desert grasses are as brown as the unpainted dirt. Luckily for me, I had enough patience to wait for the storm to clear and produce a faint rainbow over the Hills. As a result, the colors seemed to be enhanced a thousand-fold, immediately erasing the first twenty minutes of monotonous gray. The famous orange, pink, red and purple bands of volcanic strata were now visible and I along with other camera buffs came out of our shells and began clicking away. The Painted Hills are the result of volcanic formations and eruptions. The ash and debris is mixed with rainwater and heat to form the clay particles in various hues of color. In order to protect the uniquely shaped earth, climbing up the hills is discouraged to help prevent erosion and to protect the fragile bee flower which grows in the dry ravines on the hills.

A short 1.5-mile hiking trail with interpretive signs offers a taste of the unique geology as well as a chance to stretch the legs and admire nature's tapestry. A little-known secret lies just down the main gravel road past the visitors overlook; a private lake in an unusual desert setting and its own painted hills backdrop!

Three miles past the Painted Hills turnoff is the tiny "cow town" of Mitchell. The Blueberry Café is the first business once in the little burg and is a recommended place to coffee-up and feast on the muffins, which are out of this world. If you're in town at the right time of the year, don't be surprised to be delayed. Cattle drives are sometimes herded right through town, leaving a taste of the old west in your memoirs and quite a mess on the road as well. The down-to-earth hospitality, however, is unparalleled. Mitchell is also a fork in the road offering the option of either turning north onto state highway 207 through scenic ranch lands and rimrock or continuing east along US Highway 26. I suggest the latter.

After stuffing your face at the Blueberry Café, head up the steep grade for nine miles to 4,372-foot Keyes Creek Summit. A surprising little cluster of young ponderosa pines thrive at the top, reminding you of the Ochocos. Views unfold behind you of the Ochoco peaks and, on a clear day, Mt. Hood. A wide-open flat plain stretches just past the summit, almost a disappointment after all that climbing. However, rugged landforms to the east indicate that a roller-coaster-like route lies ahead, which is exactly what to expect. In another seven miles, the highway immediately slips into a wild ever-deepening gorge of basalt. Swift flowing, aptly named Mountain Creek carves its course, slowing down briefly through ranches to its terminus, the brawling John Day River itself. The massive canyon country happens to be on private land but is nevertheless grand.

This portion of the route enters a narrow 500-foot deep slot known as Picture Gorge, named after Indian petroglyphs sketched into the rocks above the river. Use caution while driving in the gorge as hairpin turns in the road limit sightseeing opportunities. Cottonwood and willows add a splash of summer green and autumn gold to the rust-colored cliffs. You'll soon come to another fork-in-the-road decision. Turn north (left) onto State Highway 19 to the Sheep Rock Unit. Sheep Rock's eroded lava-topped peak rises nearly a thousand feet above the river. Two miles past the junction is the visitor's center, picturesque James Cant Ranch House on the right side of the highway in the orchards. Get a crash course in the Cenozoic Era and the forty million-year old, tropical plant and animal life that once flourished in present-day, arid eastern Oregon. Thomas Condon, a pioneer geologist in the 1870's, was the first to discover the regions' fossils near Sheep Rock. Many of the fossils can be found scattered throughout the area. In fact, not long ago, a young student uncovered a 4-million year old fossilized banana! Just remember to leave the fossils and take only pictures. The house itself is on the National Historic Register named after a Scotish immigrant who raised sheep along the river.

The highway follows the river course in more relaxed fashion passing more pastoral ranches and rock formations rising above the river. One in particular, Cathedral Rock, makes for a scenic spot to photograph its chalky cliffs and steeples. Nearby Blue Basin offers another trail system into a claystone valley. Decorated by eons of erosion, the bluish hues in the mud are the result of a volcanic mineralization.

In 11 miles, another intersection awaits at the small community of Kimberly. Continue along Highway 19 for 13 miles to Spray. The route follows more hairpin turns with large ponderosa pines clinging to the river bank. Cottonwood, sycamore and willows add more color, especially in the fall. Wildflower shows of red indian paintbrush, and yellow arnica and the tall stalks of mullen color the rolling hills in late spring. Another leg stretching excuse is to carefully prowl the slopes in search of the red blooms and sharp spines of hedgehog and prickly pear cactus. I meant it when I said carefully. Once I had been inclined to photograph the roadside flower bonanza when I experienced my first Oregon cactus; its piercing needles bayoneted my foot, right through my shoe!

The 12-mile segment between Spray and service Creek is a bit wilder and deeper than the previous portion. A public boat access put-in for rafters is just south of Service Creek for those willing to experience the John Day's final 156 wild miles to the Columbia. This segment is a designated State Scenic Waterway and a federally designated Wild and Scenic River.

Follow Highway 19 for another 22 scenic miles to Fossil, a good place to gas-up and eat. The final unit of the national monument, Clarno Palisades, is another 20 miles west of Fossil. The fortress-like cliffs and spires are the result of ancient mudflows from the Eocene Period. Today, a well-graded path contours to the base of the honeycombed towers. Keen eyes will also find tiny fossilized animals here as well.

The curious traveler can easily experience the John Day Country. However, four-wheel drives, river rafts and mountain bikes will treat you to even more remote surprises in the vast playground. There are countless other canyons, caves and hidden pine forests waiting to be visited for the first time. Just watch out for those darn cactus spines.

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